Re-bluing a gun is not difficult, but it does take a bit of patience. This guide will walk you through the process, from start to finish. You’ll learn how to reblue a gun completely in the right way so that it will last for years to come.
Table of Contents
Many people have a gun that they would like to reblue. We will take a look at the steps necessary in order to successfully reblue your guns. The first thing we need to do is get our hands on some supplies for the project, which include: a wire brush, steel wool, gun bluing kit, and an old rag or towel.
What is Gun Bluing?
Gun bluing is a type of metal finishing that gives the surface a dark blue/black appearance. It is also called cold bluing or black oxide. The process involves immersing the object in an oxidizing chemical mixture, which can be either acidic or alkaline, and then dipping it into a water-based solution to remove any loose particles from the previous step. To get a deep color on metals such as steel, copper alloys, aluminum and zinc alloys (e.g., brass), heat treatment is required after bluing to achieve this coloring effect by diffusion of oxygen into these metals’ surfaces at elevated temperatures.
Best Bluing Kits
If you’re looking for the best gun bluing kits, then look no further! In this blog post we will be going over a few of our favorite products and why they are so great.
- Blue Magic Gun Blue Kit
- Brownells Aluminum Oxide Polish Kit
- Aluma Hyde’s Pistol & Revolver Cleaning Kit
Methods of Re-Bluing A Gun
Cold bluing is a process that gives firearms an attractive, deep and rich finish. It’s an excellent way to restore the appearance of old or neglected guns. The color is very close to black but lighter in shade. If you own an older gun with brown or gray spots on it, cold blue may be your solution! We’ll discuss how to cold bluing a gun below.
The steps for cold blue a gun are as follows:
Cleaning and Polishing:
Apply some sort of lubricant (Alox) onto the metal surface being treated (this will help release any rust particles). Let sit for at least 24 hours.
Use the Bluing Solution:
Paint over all surfaces with “cold” paint using brush, cloth or spray, let dry until no more fumes are given off from painting.
Finish with gun oil. You may also want to use DuraCoat and/or jewelry quality polishing compound on your workpiece before applying the finish coat of cold bluing paint.
- Double-strength bluing solution
- For bluing highly polished steel parts and hardened steels containing nickel and chrome alloys (except stainless)
Hot bluing is a process that can be done to firearms and other objects, especially metal parts. The process includes immersion in boiling nitric acid followed by treatment with potassium dichromate (K2Cr2O7) or chromium salts. It oxidizes the surface of the metal, giving it a black finish. Hot bluing is typically used when rust has already begun to form on a part because unlike cold bluing, hot bluing does not require prior cleaning of the object before application
- Obtain an aluminum container large enough for your object
- Fill container about 3/4 full of water
- Fill to about three quarters full with boiling water and submerge the object into the container.
- This will soften any corrosion on a piece before proceeding onto other steps, so allow it to stay submerged for an hour or two.
- A form of salt can be added at this time to help dissolve rust and some metals from attaching themselves back to your metal later in the process.
- If using chrome colorant, add it now as well. Allow overnight soak time if not used earlier (Do not use bleach)
- For firearms: clean off all pieces that are being blued separately (barrels, forearms, receivers) Leave for some hours.
Rust bluing is a process that was originally developed to give guns, swords and other metal objects a protective finish. The process involves the use of potassium dichromate, water, vinegar or lemon juice as an oxidizing agent, oil for lubrication and ammonia nitrate for hardening.
- Spray the metal with a rust remover. Once you have sprayed it, let it sit for about five minutes and then scrub off any remaining residue or oil on the surface of the object using steel wool. Rinse well with water after doing this to remove all traces of acid from your gun.
- Apply a phosphate-based solution that is diluted in three parts water into patches over the rusted areas on your item, letting them dry before applying more layers until they become covered fully by white corrosion product deposits. Leave overnight so that these depositions can harden further
- Wash away all of the scrubbed corrosive products and vinegar residues left behind onto an aluminum plate with soap and hot water. A toothbrush helps scrub off any corrosive that has gotten into the hard to reach spots.
- Remove all of the protective scaling that is left over from the vinegar and scrubbing by washing away any remaining residues on an aluminum plate. This will ensure that your item now has a smooth surface for when it’s time to paint over it. Rinse, then wipe off excess moisture using paper towels or cloths before moving onto Step Five
- Apply gun bluing compound into patches over this area using cotton swabs so as not to apply too much at once (don’t want it running). Make sure these become thoroughly coated in the substance, if you applied too little, add more until they are completely covered in and leave it.
Niter bluing is a process of applying an electrochemical conversion coating to metal parts. The process improves the wear and corrosion resistance of steel, as well as increasing its decorative appeal. This article will show you how to niter blue a gun in order to make it look better than ever before!
- First, you will need to purchase a nitric acid solution. You can buy some from your local hardware store or online at places like Amazon and Ebay. The concentration of the acid is determined by what type of metal you are niter bluing – for example, copper requires more concentrated solutions than steel does. Be aware that different strengths may have very dangerous side effects; wearing gloves and goggles when dealing with chemicals is highly recommended!
- Next, prepare your workstation so that it has two containers in which to dump the spent acids once they’re complete (one on each end), tape them down securely to avoid spills or splashes during use, then add cold water until the container is half full.
- Next, pour the nitric acid into one of the cups, and add a small amount of food coloring (such as red or blue) to tell which is which. This will also indicate when it’s time for you to switch between them.
- Next, fill up your other container with cold water until it reaches halfway. Stirring may be necessary if there are any clumps in order to dissolve all the grains before use.
- Take some steel wool that has been cut into smaller pieces and submerge them fully in your toner solution while wearing gloves so they don’t cause burns on contact. You should notice bubbles forming immediately from this movement; these bubbles mean that the chemical reactionhas begun! Now stir gently for about ten minutes – be sure to not touch the steel wool or any part of this solution while it’s being stirred.
- After ten minutes, take your gloves off and wear a pair you don’t care about getting dirty. Take some tongs to carefully remove the steel wool from the liquid while still wearing these fresh gloves; then set it aside for later
- Now pour in more cold water into your original container until there is enough room for all three cups – 50% nitric acid, 25% cold water, and 25% blue dye. Stir with a long object like an old broomstick handle so that each layer mixes together as much as possible before submerging another piece of steel wool in one of the cups and stirring again.
- It will give your firearm a new and unique look, while also making it easier to identify in low light conditions.
- It is an inexpensive way to update the finish on a firearm that has seen better days without investing in something entirely new! The process is fast and easy with little-to-no downtime for firearms owners who want their guns back as soon as possible.
- It will improve the durability and lifespan of your firearm.
- It is a way to personalize your firearms with colors that represent who you are or what you do.
Before we get into the details of this topic, it is important to know what type of gun you have. The bluing kits come in a few different types- one for handguns and one for rifles. Nonetheless, remember that not every one of the packs are useful for dye tempered steel and aluminum. You may have to check with the producer to realize which are viable with these materials.
The answer to that question is “yes,” but only if the right steps are taken. It’s important to follow each step in the process carefully when applying any form of bluing, whether it be for a firearm or other metal items.
Bluing kits are a simple solution for creating that perfect finishing on your firearm. Bluing is an inexpensive way to make your gun look new again and protect it against corrosion. It normally relies upon how you utilize and apply the arrangement in the unit and the coats you apply on a superficial level.
In the conclusion of re-bluing a gun, we will cover what is necessary to protect and care for your newly finished piece. The first thing you should do is make sure that the barrel has been wiped clean of all rust and residue from the previous finish so that it doesn’t interfere with the new one. Next, you’ll want to wipe down any metal surface with a cloth soaked in cleaning solvent like acetone or turpentine.
Then take an old rag and liberally apply some more cleaner on it before wiping down all surfaces again. Finally, rinse off any excess cleaner by running water over everything then dry well with a clean cloth. It makes guns attractive and furnished.